In the wilderness lies the preservation of the world.
Henry David Thoreau
Nissen Bight to Laura Creek – Day 2 on the North Coast Trail
As we get up in the morning, thick clouds hang in the sky. Not again! We’ve had enough of the rain. The first thick drops fall as we fill up our water bottles at a small stream shortly after we leave our camp. Quickly put on our jackets, cover the packs with their waterproof covers and then get going. Our destination today is Laura Creek. This is only 7.8 km, which is much less strenuous compared to the previous day. Nevertheless, we slog over a mountain through a lot of mud. Right at the beginning, we run into a group of hikers coming toward us, and judging by their clothes, we can guess what is coming: mud, more mud, slippery paths and a lot of swearing when one slips and ends up completely in the mud. So mu(d)ch fun!!!
After wading through the mud for about 2 hours, we pass a small lake in the raised bog, where loons, common birds here in Canada, are singing. Loons also adorn the Canadian 1-dollar coin (which they call a “loonie”). Although the singing sounds more like a laugh. I hope they are not laughing at this group of Germans completely covered in mud who got lost on the North Coast Trail. Luckily, it has now stopped raining.
Downhill, we quickly pass through the enchanted coastal rainforest with ferns, moss and huge pine trees before we arrive at Laura Creek, which flows directly into the sea. We set up our tent on a platform in the forest, which becomes very full very quickly with other hikers. When we go for a swim, though, we discover a wonderful spot for camping about 200 m up the beach directly at Laura Creek. Perfect!
So we quickly rebuild the camp, make dinner, wash our things and enjoy the view of the sunset over the sea by the campfire. Twice we see whales passing by in the distance – as to whether they are grey whales or humpback whales, we can’t tell. But that’s not important, because whales alone are exciting enough!
And while everyone is watching the sinking red fireball, our faces reflect the wonderful moments in nature with a smile.